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Quick backstory:

I've got a boat. It's my home. My front door is a hatch that slides horizontally. The boat does not have a dodger -- which would be a canvas roof over the hatch -- anymore, and my replacement isn't going to be finished soon.

So I need to build a frame to support a tarp so that I can get in and out through the hatch, and not have it be buried in snow. It's got to be strong enough to support the weight of the snow. It has to be able to be assembled pretty easily (I have a cordless drill, and a manual hacksaw, and a bunch of other small tools, but no table saws or anything like that.) It also has to be able to withstand some heavy winds, tho' I think tying it down will suffice.

My current thinking is 1" PVC pipes and joints. But I'm open to suggestions.

Ordinarily I'd figure this out on my own, but as I have about 30 hours to get it done and I need to sleep & go to work for much of that, I'm coming to you.

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We are remodeling our kitchen and want a kitchen island. The stove and cabinets together will be 90 inches long and 24” deep. We would like another 24” overhang on the back side for bar stool seating (total depth of 48”).

My question is, how do I securely join together 2 pieces of butcher block that are 90” long and 24” deep to make it 90”x48”? Thanks in advance.

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The wall is 7 and 13/16 inches wide. The method of attaching must be moveable, so I could move it from one part of the wall to another or onto the top of an entirely different wall. It also must not leave any permanent marks on the wall so no nailing or drilling. It must be secure enough to withstand children pushing in the board on occasion.

a visual of the board and the wall

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My house is nearly 100 years old and most of the walls are lathe and plaster. I need to find studs so I can hang some brackets to hold my guitars. A traditional stud finder doesn't work because of the lathe. I have tried the magnet trick an a metal detector looking for the nails, but both have limited reliability and I have still managed to drill holes into nothing. Talking to other homeowners in my neighbourhood I also know that I can't count on the studs being a standard 16" apart so measuring from a corner doesn't work either. Are there any useful gadgets or pro tips that will help me get this done?

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I just got some motorized blinds installed, and I’m looking to have them be controlled by Alexa. The blinds come with a 15 channel remote that I assume is a radio frequency remote. Can anyone help me make this happen? I am open to buying new equipment, but not open to modifying the actual blinds mechanism. I’m thinking the solution is having Alexa duplicate the signal from the remote. Thanks all!!

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I woke up to a wet floor again this morning, and I realize I need help.

Here's the backstory

Last year, my condo association declared we could no longer use in-window units because they feared the old building was getting damaged or something. Lucky me, my father had a portable unit we would take to Oshkosh for the air show there to keep ourselves cool overnight, and he wanted to get himself a new one, so I got the old one.

Model M6P09S2A*B 9000 B.T.U. for a studio apartment.

It worked fine for about a year, but a week ago it started with the water works.

I had been running it mid-day, but then shut it off when I went to the store. I came back home an hour later and the power-light was flashing (quick check said that meant the bottom pan float was in the 'I'm fulla water' position). I drained out the pan and it started up again just fine. But that's when I noticed there was a bit of a puddle under the unit. I cleaned that up and decided to see if maybe there was dust on the condenser. Popped off the back panel, and sure enough, it was fairly well covered. I've seen much worse, but it looked like enough to limit air flow.

My thinking was that the air wasn't moving through the bottom fast enough to evaporate the pan-water and carry it out the window exhaust port.

I vacuumed out the fins until it looked dust-free, put the covers back on, and turned it back on. It seemed happy.

Long story short, it wasn't actually happy. the puddle was bigger next time, and I looked and could see that water was actually spitting out of the vent on the lower back.

I figured, well, it's really humid, maybe this is just life now. I bought a drip tray (basically a 1.3" deep plastic floor mat for boots) and figured that'd catch the water if it wants to drip again.

I also was making sure I drained the pan before each use. I'd get maybe 2-3 cups of water out of it before it was dry.

Last night, however, it filled up the floor tray, and then dumped gallons of water all over my hardwood floor. I know it was gallons because it nearly filled a 3-gallon cooking pot that I was using to bail out my apartment before she sank beneath the waves.

I'm going to take it apart more, not just the back panel when I get home. But don't know what I'm looking for.

My theory is that the evaporator at teh top has a pan of its own, and that pan is supposed to drain down into the bottom pan. And that maybe the top pan is clogged and so it fills up and as cold water drips into it, it's just splashing over the sides into the housing to drip out through the seams. That's a guess tho'. I don't actually know if that's a thing.

Any help?

thank you in advance

*edit - I should add that I found the user manual, but it's not a maintenance manual and it is pretty much designed to stave off lawsuits, not keep the machine running properly.

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Title, mostly.

My little box

I have a digital audio converter that runs off 5v DC (usb cable) and my amp with one of those circular DC IN power cords stuffed into a small box, about 3x5x6 deep. I wanna throw a small fan inside just to move the air around a bit and i'm wondering what the best way to power this little guy would be? I'm looking at something like this or something similar in size. Just enough to give it more-than-passive airflow.

And yes, before anyone grabs their pitchfork; I plan on painting it black.

Edit: perhaps some audiophile that knows about "class D digital amps" would know... do these things even get warm enough to warrant a fan in this situation?? I just wanted to throw one in as a precaution instead of finding out the hard way.

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Tldr: can i power a car stereo and two speakers off a 12v plug with a fuse block?

So just started trucking and they gave me a 1988 mack with no radio but the cigarette lighter works i want to build a wooden box with an old deck and two car speakers to sit in the cab and im just wondering if i can wire the power ground to a cigarette lighter or will that blow fuses?

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I have bought cat towers in the past and my cats not being declawed have destroyed them all. Wanted to make them a new one that would be durable, and easy enough that I could make them another one. Thinking of recycling some old shelves for it. Any fun ideas?

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Archived

i have a vert small camper, it has a seperate room that has room for a small toilet. i have no water tank or anything like that. i just want to setup a toilet that i can hook up sewage to at campsites.

what is the easiest simplest cheapest way to do this? i have no idea how rv toilets work. please help.

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